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The History of Surfing, by Matt Warshaw
Free Ebook The History of Surfing, by Matt Warshaw
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Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.
- Sales Rank: #32679 in Books
- Brand: Matt Warshaw
- Published on: 2010-09-01
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 11.00" h x 1.75" w x 9.50" l, 5.20 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 495 pages
Review
"Trust us, his book is the place to go for the goods." - OC Weekly
"Meticulously researched, smartly written, beautifully laid out...required reading." - Outside Magazine
"Written by one of the world's leading surf historians, this ...is the definitive book on surf history and culture." - Drift Magazine
"There's a reason that Warshaw is at the top of the surf writing field, and if you're looking for a gift for the literate surfer in your life, this is definitely the one." -SBC Surf Magazine
About the Author
Matt Warshaw is the former editor of SURFER magazine. A lifelong surfer, he is the author of numerous books on surfing, including Maverick's: The Story of Big Wave Surfing. He lives in San Francisco with his wife and son.
Most helpful customer reviews
11 of 11 people found the following review helpful.
A Masterpiece
By waterman22
This is it, the definitive story of surfing, surfers and beach culture.
It's a big thick textbook like collection of information, photos, stories and anecdotes.
Warshaw has set the bar so high with this work, I doubt anyone will ever have the balls to approach the subject again.
I will be reading and re-reading this one for a long time to come
20 of 23 people found the following review helpful.
NOT JUST FOR SURFERS
By Mimi Kalland
I am not a surfer. But I am a history buff who was given an advance copy of this gorgeous book. I'm only on page 174, but I have to stop and share my excitement about The History of Surfing. How can you not love a book that describes the crowds at surf movies of the late 1950's like this:
"Firecrackers were lit and rolled across the floor to the next row of seats. Bottlecaps zipped through the air. High decibel beer-belches rang out. A motorcyclist might blow in through the side door, ride up one aisle and down the other, then gun back out the way he came.
"What older surfers invariably describe first when talking about early surf movies is the tearing thunderclap of cheers and whistles and stomping feet that began when the lights dimmed and the first blue-green image lip up the screen--a roaring noise signifying not just a manic willingness to be entertained, but the pure joy of an otherwise staunchly nonaligned multitude coming together briefly, powerfully, ecstatically as a group."
Now that's the way to write history. Kevin Starr, California State Historian, eat your heart out.
9 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
Great writing
By Johnny
When I got this book I was a bit afraid it would take me forever to read, but as soon as I opened it up and read the first few pages I discovered just how good a writer Matt Warshaw is and how hard it would be to put it down. Matt has gotten the words right using each one with careful consideration and has somehow been able to cover all the bases with an unbiased yet engaging perspective that is different from just reading facts. Reading along and having a slight idea of what was to come made it exciting to see how the bits and pieces of surf history I knew of would be played out in the pages. It was a bit like watching a movie version of a really good book. Most cases you go in expecting a letdown because how can someone match what the book did on the screen, but every once in a while you are surprised. How could someone take the history of surfing and impress in a book? Well somehow this author has. I would recommend it to surfers and non-surfers alike. Great photos, nice job on the page titles, and above all else really great writing.
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